Hanamurasaki

Hanamurasaki is a luxury hot-spring ryokan in Yamanaka Onsen. Its signature is “a la carte kaiseki,” an order-made kaiseki meal where you can freely combine the dishes you like—Hanamurasaki is said to be the only place in Japan with this system. On the day, you choose from about 50 kinds of that day’s menu listed in your room; you place the order from the room, and the selected dishes are served at dinner. In winter there is also a crab kaiseki option, letting you fully enjoy seasonal cuisine. All rooms face the Kakusenkei Gorge, so you can look out over the river from the window, and each guestroom has a small inner garden (tsuboniwa) when you open the door. The onsen includes a 100% source-fed large bath and a scenic open-air bath, both famous as “beautifying” baths. Of course, rooms also have baths. At limited times, chilled sweets are served after bathing. Breakfast is also luxurious, including freshly made tofu on the spot. For travelers who care about food, it’s a choice you’re unlikely to regret. Access: about 15 minutes by the inn’s free shuttle from JR Kagaonsen Station.