SHIMA YAMAGUCHIKAN

Shima Yamaguchikan is a source-hot-spring inn located in a ravine slightly away from the center of Shima Onsen. Even though it’s a bit removed, its hot springs are excellent, offering seven baths including private rental baths. The signature bath is the large open-air “Odaimoku Dai-Rotenburo,” featuring the Buddhist phrase “Namu Myoho Renge Kyo” carved into a massive rock about 25 m around. From indoor to open-air baths, the tubs are built along the Shima River; it’s recommended to relax slowly while listening to the river’s murmuring outside the baths. Another highlight is the open-air bath “Keiryu Rotenburo,” which has surprising, atmospheric features like shoji screens and a tokonoma alcove—many first-time visitors are astonished by its appearance. Beyond the pleasant water, the warmth of wood and gentle wind make you feel as if all fatigue melts away. The building is also like a small town inside, and strolling around the interior is part of the fun. The proprietress’s picture-storytelling (kamishibai) reading is well regarded and often mentioned in reviews.